What is Caldo de Queso?
Caldo de Queso is a Sonora-style cheese and potato soup. Hearty oversized chunks of potatoes rise like islands from a light, milky broth seasoned with green chiles, onions, and tomatoes. Caldo de Queso’s greatest treasure is at the bottom of the bowl where gooey, melty glops of Mexican cheese lie in wait.
The cheese melts easily into the hot broth, while at the same time not fully incorporating into it. This is a metaphor for the recipe which evolved from the merging of cultures, and the evolution of technologies.
What was once a highly localized recipe can now be shared and enjoyed by the rest of the world because of access to regionally specific ingredients like Mexican oregano, varieties of cheeses, and chiles that only recently became more widely available through advancements in distribution and online shopping.
This particular variety of cheese and potato soup is unique to the Sonoran region saddling the northern border of Mexico and the southern border of Arizona. Caldo de Queso evolved from the symbiotic relationship between native cultures and European settlers.
Additional Notes on Ingredients
Potatoes were brought to the Americas from Peru where they were eaten and worshiped by the Incas. European settlers brought both cheesemaking techniques and cows. Tomatoes, chiles, and Mexican oregano are native.
Yukon Gold potatoes were developed in Canada in the 1980s. They have a creamy texture, medium starch content, and thinner skins that don’t need to be peeled which helps the potatoes retain their shape while cooking.
Evaporated milk is a product of the late 1800s when canning processes and the railroad made it possible for shelf-stable milk that lasted for months to readily exist in the Sonoran Desert without refrigeration. It adds a smooth creaminess and subtle sweetness to Caldo de Queso.
Mexican oregano is different than Mediterranean oregano which was introduced to the Americas by European settlers and incorporated into Sonoran cuisine. It is part of the mint family of herbs. Mexican oregano is related to Mediterranean oregano in name only. It’s not even oregano at all! It’s a relative of lemon verbena and imparts a citrus-based flavor. Rancho Gordo and Amazing Chiles and Spice Company are two of my favorite brands.
There are thousands of varieties of green chiles. For this recipe, look for packaged, diced, roasted hot or mild Hatch, New Mexico or Anaheim chiles that are often simply labeled “green chile peppers” or “green chili.” Serve Caldo de Queso with crushed dried chiltepin chiles on the side instead of hot sauce for an extra kick that doesn’t mask the subtle flavors of the soup.
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Versions of this recipe for Caldo de Queso were first published in my cookbook, Taste of Tucson: Sonoran-Style Recipes Inspired by the Rich Culture of Southern Arizona and have been featured on Serious Eats.
Equipment
- 5+ quart Dutch oven or soup pot
Ingredients
- 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
- 1 cup water
- 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes about 2 pounds, scrubbed and quartered
- 1 large tomato diced about 8oz
- 1 medium white onion diced about 8oz
- 1 7-ounce can chopped roasted Anaheim or Hatch green chiles, hot or mild,
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic about 4 cloves
- 1 to 2 teaspoons Knorr chicken flavored granulated bullion, or 1 tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt if vegetarian, divided
- 1 12-ounce lowfat or nonfat evaporated milk
- 1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano plus more for serving
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 8 ounces Queso Quesadilla, Oaxaca, or Mexican blend cheese, shredded
- 4-8 dried chiltepin chiles for serving crushed, optional
- 4-8 flour or corn tortillas for serving
Instructions
- In a 5+ quart Dutch oven or soup pot, combine broth, water, potatoes, tomatoes, onion, green chiles, garlic and 1 teaspoon bullion powder or salt if using.
- Remove from heat, Stir in the evaporated milk and Mexican oregano and simmer for 5 minutes longer. Taste and season with additional salt, teaspoon of bullion powder and pepper as desired.
- Put ¼ cup of shredded cheese in the bottom of each of 4 bowls, then ladle the soup over the top.
- Sprinkle with crushed chiltepin chile, and Mexican Oregano. Scoop bits of potato and cheese into warm corn and/or flour tortillas.
Notes
Versions of this recipe for Caldo de Queso were first published in my cookbook, Taste of Tucson: Sonoran-Style Recipes Inspired by the Rich Culture of Southern Arizona and have been featured on Serious Eats.
